The Fibre Behind Oxbridge Flannel
Each October, Wool Month and the Campaign for Wool place renewed attention on one of tailoring’s most enduring natural fibres. For Standeven, it is also an opportunity to look beyond the finished cloth and consider where its character begins.
Oxbridge Flannel is made from 100% Super 120’s RWS Merino wool. The Responsible Wool Standard provides a recognised framework covering the welfare of sheep, the management of the land on which they graze and the journey of certified wool through the supply chain.
For the tailor, however, the quality of the fibre must ultimately reveal itself in the cloth.
From fibre to cutting table.
Oxbridge Flannel brings together woollen heritage, tactile warmth and a refined, vintage-inspired character. Its softly milled surface gives the cloth a distinctive matt appearance, bringing depth to colour and a gentler definition to checks, stripes and traditional designs.
The collection has been created for autumn and winter tailoring, with sufficient substance to hold a considered silhouette while retaining the softness and movement associated with a well-made flannel.
It is this balance that Maximilian Mogg values when working with the cloth. In our conversation about flannel and tailoring, he describes how it has “enough body to hold a line, but enough softness not to make the result look rigid.”
Read our Q&A with Maximilian Mogg.
Victoria Thompson of Norton & Townsend also sees possibilities beyond the traditional flannel suit. Her experience demonstrates how familiar cloths can be reinterpreted through cut—from classic tailoring to a grey chalk-stripe jacket with tailored, pleated shorts.
Read our Q&A with Victoria Thompson.
What RWS adds to the specification.
Developed by Textile Exchange, the Responsible Wool Standard sets requirements relating to animal welfare, land management and social conditions on certified farms. Independent certification bodies audit the relevant stages of the supply chain, while chain-of-custody requirements document the movement of certified material.
For tailoring houses, this provides a clearer answer when clients ask about the provenance of the wool selected for their garments. It does not replace the qualities traditionally considered at the cutting table—handle, weight, drape, colour and design—but sits alongside them.
A cloth with purpose and character.
The Campaign for Wool encourages greater understanding of wool, its natural qualities and the skill involved in transforming fibre into finished products. Wool Month gives the industry an opportunity to celebrate that complete journey: from the sheep and the land to the mill, the cutting table and, ultimately, the wearer.
Oxbridge Flannel reflects that journey in a cloth designed for contemporary tailoring. It combines a documented fibre standard with the depth, softness and character that have made flannel a lasting part of the tailor’s repertoire.
To explore the renewed Oxbridge Flannel bunch, email sales@standevenfabrics.co.uk
