Oxbridge Flannel Launch - Victoria Thompson Q&A

To mark the launch of the renewed Oxbridge Flannel bunch, we spoke with four tailors about the place of flannel in their work. From the decisions made at the cutting table to the qualities their clients return for, these conversations explore the cloth through the experience of those who cut, shape and make with it.
Victoria Thompson of Norton & Townsend values flannel for its balance of substance and softness. Her experience spans classic tailoring and more unexpected interpretations, including a grey chalk-stripe jacket paired with pleated shorts. We spoke with her about working with flannel, the possibilities it offers through cut and the versatility her clients appreciate in the finished garment.

Tailor: Victoria Thompson

Instagram Tag: @nortonandtownsend

What makes flannel one of your favorite cloths to work with?

Flannel has always been one of my favourite cloths because it has both substance and softness. It tailors beautifully, holds its shape and gives a garment a wonderful drape, without feeling overly formal or rigid. I also love the depth of colour and texture you get with flannel—it has a richness that a very smooth worsted cloth simply cannot replicate. For me, it is the perfect balance of traditional tailoring and modern wearability.

What keeps your clients coming back to flannel?

It is incredibly comfortable and versatile. A flannel suit looks polished enough for business, but it can also be broken down and worn as separates. The jacket works with denim or chinos, while the trousers look just as good with an Oxford shirt, knitwear or a casual jacket. Clients also love the warmth, softness and confidence it gives them. Once they have experienced a well-cut flannel suit, they quickly understand why it deserves a permanent place in their autumn and winter wardrobe.

What do you think separates a truly great flannel from an average one?

A great flannel has a beautiful handle, a rich finish and enough body to tailor well, while still feeling soft and comfortable to wear. It should drape cleanly, recover well and hold its shape throughout the day. The depth and clarity of the colour are also incredibly important, particularly with traditional greys, charcoals and classic patterns. A truly great flannel feels luxurious, but it should also be practical and hard-working—it needs to look as good at the end of the day as it did when you first put it on.

Why do you think flannel has remained such a timeless choice despite changing fashions?

Flannel has remained timeless because it adapts. It has a strong connection to traditional British tailoring, yet it never feels trapped in the past. The same cloth can be used for a classic business suit, a softer contemporary jacket, wide-leg trousers or relaxed separates. Silhouettes and styling may change, but the qualities people want from their clothes—comfort, warmth, versatility and longevity—remain the same. Flannel offers all of those things, while always looking effortlessly elegant.

What do you particularly enjoy about working with flannel?

I love the character that flannel brings to a garment. It has a softness and depth that immediately makes tailoring feel more luxurious, but it still has enough body to create a beautifully defined shape. It responds extremely well to traditional tailoring techniques and produces garments that feel substantial without being stiff. It is also a cloth that becomes even more appealing with wear—it settles into the wearer’s lifestyle and develops a wonderful, natural elegance.

How does flannel behave during cutting and making compared with other cloths?

A good-quality flannel is stable, substantial and very satisfying to work with. It has enough body to hold its shape during cutting and making, while its softness allows it to be moulded beautifully through the chest, shoulders and lapels. Its matt, slightly brushed surface can also be more forgiving than a very smooth, lightweight cloth.

However, it still requires care and skill. The direction of the nap must be considered when cutting, and the cloth needs to be pressed carefully to protect its surface and avoid shine. When handled properly, it produces an exceptionally polished garment.

Does flannel allow you to achieve a particular silhouette or drape?

Flannel creates a wonderfully soft yet confident silhouette. It has enough weight to fall cleanly through the body and trousers, which gives the finished garment a very elegant drape. It works beautifully for a classic structured suit, but it is equally effective in a softer, more relaxed style.

I particularly love flannel for wider or fuller trousers because the cloth hangs so well and moves beautifully. It is also ideal for double-breasted jackets, strong lapels and slightly longer silhouettes, where its natural weight helps maintain the intended shape.

Are there particular tailoring details that flannel showcases particularly well?

Flannel showcases shape exceptionally well. Strong peak lapels, double-breasted fronts, pleated trousers and beautifully constructed shoulders all benefit from its body and drape. It is also perfect for traditional patterns such as chalk stripes, pinstripes and checks, as the soft finish gives them depth without making them feel too harsh.

Details such as patch pockets can make flannel feel more relaxed, while sharp lapels and jetted pockets take it in a more formal direction. That versatility is one of its greatest strengths—the details can completely change the character of the garment while the cloth continues to do its job beautifully.

Which clients are most drawn to flannel?

Flannel naturally appeals to clients who appreciate traditional British tailoring, but it is by no means limited to the traditional dresser. We increasingly see younger clients and those building a more versatile wardrobe drawn to it because it feels softer and less corporate than a very smooth worsted suit.

It is particularly popular with professionals who want to look polished without appearing overly formal, as well as clients who enjoy wearing tailored pieces separately. Flannel also appeals to anyone who values quality, longevity and clothing that can be styled in several different ways.

What do clients tend to say after wearing a flannel suit for the first time?

The first thing clients usually mention is how comfortable it feels. Some expect flannel to be heavy, stiff or old-fashioned, so they are often surprised by its softness and how easy it is to wear.

They also notice how well it drapes and how confidently it carries them through the day. Many clients find that their flannel suit quickly becomes one of the most frequently worn pieces in their wardrobe—not only as a complete suit, but as separate jackets and trousers too.

How would you explain the appeal of flannel to someone who has never owned a flannel suit?

I would describe it as a cloth that gives you the elegance of a beautifully tailored suit, but with a softer and more relaxed character. It has texture, depth and warmth, so even a plain navy, grey or charcoal flannel feels interesting and luxurious.

It is also far more versatile than many people realise. You can wear it as a full suit for business or an occasion, then style the jacket with denim or the trousers with a shirt and knitwear. It bridges the gap between formal tailoring and a more relaxed modern wardrobe exceptionally well.

What occasions do you particularly recommend flannel for?

Flannel is ideal for autumn and winter business wear, particularly when you want to look professional without feeling too corporate. It is also a wonderful choice for seasonal weddings, dinners, race meetings and other smart occasions.

Away from formal events, flannel works beautifully for smart-casual dressing. A flannel jacket worn with a roll neck and tailored trousers, or flannel trousers paired with an Oxford shirt and knitwear, creates an effortlessly polished look. It is one of those rare cloths that can take you from the office to an evening out simply by changing how you style it

What’s the first flannel cloth that really impressed you?

I honestly cannot remember the exact first flannel bunch, but I do remember being captivated by a traditional grey flannel. It was not loud or particularly unusual, but the depth of colour, soft handle and beautiful drape made it feel incredibly special. It showed me that a cloth does not need to shout to have presence. That understated quality is still one of the things I love most about flannel today.

Do you have a favourite flannel suit you’ve made? What made it memorable?

One of my favourites is a women’s short suit made in a traditional grey chalk-stripe flannel. I took a cloth normally associated with classic menswear and used it for a single-breasted jacket with tailored, pleated shorts.

It was memorable because it perfectly demonstrated how versatile flannel can be. The cloth was deeply traditional, but the silhouette made it feel modern, feminine and a little unexpected. I wore the shorts throughout the summer too, proving that flannel does not always need to be confined to conventional autumn and winter tailoring.

If every customer could own one flannel garment, what would you recommend—and why?

I would recommend a beautifully cut pair of mid-grey flannel trousers. They are one of the most useful pieces anyone can have in their wardrobe.

They can be worn with a tailored jacket and shirt for business, with knitwear and loafers for a more relaxed look, or with a T-shirt and trainers for something contemporary. They work equally well for men and women, and the natural weight of the cloth gives the trousers a wonderful drape. They are comfortable, timeless and incredibly easy to style.

In three words, how would you describe the feeling of wearing a great flannel suit?

Confident. Comfortable. Timeless.